Lunch out for the parents

Mike and I were lucky enough to get out for lunch today at Apicius in Cranbrook. We often try to push the boat out for birthdays and anniversaries as we both used to eat out a lot when we were 'courting' well, before the sprogs arrived anyway and made it more difficult to do so. There's a bit of a growing list of venues I'd like to visit before we move south, but to be honest we are not exactly spoilt for choice in Kent when it comes to top notch restaurants. Fortunately we did visit one today though! Apicius received a good couple of reviews online, and my better half was particularly drawn to a review of a pork dish served here, which he duly ordered and did not disappoint.

Mike and I always try to tag team when it comes to ordering, so we can sample the widest range on offer! I was tempted by the pork, but since it was his birthday lunch, I backed down in favour of the sea bass. I don't often opt for fish either as it always leaves me feel slightly cheated, but that's a personal thing as I think you can do so much more with meat, whereas fish is best treated simply. I guess I feel ordering meat justifies the price and show of skill of behalf of the chef. Anyway today I am ordering fish because my expanding waistline needs expanding no further, but I must say I fell down on dessert (details later) To start I opted for a jelly of guinea fowl, chanterelles, candied orange and pistachio with salad leaves. It was basically a light and fresh spring terrine, with a soft texture reminiscent of the victorian's take on a savoury jelly. It had a pleasant gaminess without the rich punch you might find in a wintery pate, cleverly offset with the tart candied orange that cleansed the palate. I washed this down with a glass of Riesling, primarily chosed for my main course, but it suited perfectly well. Mike chose the veal sweetbreads, with celeriac puree, very simply described on the menu, but came surprisingly breaded and deep fried. I think this was a pleasant contrast of texture, as had they not been , the softness may have become cloying with the rich puree. The flavour was smooth and satisfyingly meaty without being over offaly, the portion generous too.

Despite the fact we chose Cranbrook's Family fun day to eat, the restaurant was only half full, and with only 9 tables, I suppose that's pretty quiet. There was a pleasant patter of chat and an easy ambience to the place, and the service friendly and well timed between courses. So after a short wait and time to digest our starters, the mains arrived in timely fashion. My seabass was a little on the small side, but perfectly cooked, aside from a small criticism, if you include the skin, it should be crispy not wet. The flavours complemented perfectly, the crushed new potatoes were lifted with a little vanilla  oil, the cherry tomatoes perfectly tart and sweet in equal measure and the fennel beautifully braised. Mike's pork dish was very good, but did not quite meet to incredibly florid and complimentary review given by the Arbuturian. The small portion I tried seemed quite rustic in flavour, smoky with paprika but tender and slow cooked. The croquette was expertly crisp and beautifully formed, but I did wonder whether the contents justified the difference in treatment, just more shredded pork? Perhaps this should have been sausage meat or something like a crispy pig's ear? Anyway this does sound quite critical as overall the dish appeared well balanced and executed to a high standard.

The high point for me was dessert, I had to have the chocolate fondant as I'd been so virtuous up till then! What a superb fondant it was too, perfectly cooked, sumptiously rich with an oozing unctious centre, flanked by a refreshing vanilla icecream, and a shot of the most concentrated raspberry drink I have ever experienced. Lovely! Mike had the coffee panna cotta with mint tea, and Baileys icecream, equally good.

Overall I think it was a fantastic lunch, the high points being the dessert for me, and perhaps Mike's starter for surprise factor. We'll definitely be considering going back one day, as the owners were so friendly, it would be rude not to!